Distributed by The Cuba Free Press Project.

Havana, November 5, 1997, Cuba Free Press

The Sacred Cow. By Ariel Tapia, Cuba Free Press.

In the interminable list of scarce items which we Cubans have had to deal with, beef takes a prominent possition. Beef, a vital source of proteins and recognized symbol of good eating. It isn't exactly due to religion, or even less a vegetarian tradition, what keeps islanders from consuming beef, even if in sometimes, the mass media has been unleashed against this consumer product, using scientific arguments to point out its harmful side.

At the time of the triumph of the revolution in Cuba, there were about 6 million heads of cattle in the island, an amount, per capita, similar to a country like today's Great Britain. After socialism became implemented, almost all foodstuffs, including red meat, were subjected to a strict rationing which at least guaranteed an equitable family food basket, according to the precepts of equality which sustain Marxism-Leninism. The rationing did not mean, however, that the Cuban table would not see steaks for a long time. Since for every member of the family they allotted more than a kilogram of meat per month, alternating with poultry. The promises of an increase in economic production, all under the watchful eye of the centralist bureaucracy dissipated with time, and with them, the hope that state owned grocers would offer beef without rationing.

In the decade of the 80's, the parallel markets were also unable to satisfy the internal demand (for the product). By this time-- which marks the highest level of prosperity under the revolution-- the Cuban indicators of food supplies were acceptable. The island was second among the 18 Latin American countries in caloric consumption, with a total of 2,898 per inhabitant. Also, Cubans were fourth in consumption of proteins, with a daily average of 77 grams.

The "special period" unleashed a veritable "crisis of empty dishes". The beef shortage became acute, and in consequence, it became more expensive. The clearest example of the situation has been the increase in thefts and illegal sacrifices of cattle, something which tripled from 1986 to 1995. The punishments which the tribunals have metted out for dealing in beef are comparable with drug trafficking, and the police operatives and dragnets with which they've tried to deal with these crimes are truly incredible, only comparable with the search for an assassin, or with the control of anti-government riots.

At the most tense and dramatic point in the crisis, the government advised the citizens to look towards mother nature to appease their hunger. In the midst of so many shortages, the newspapers published recipes with tree leafs, flowers and roots as incredients, while the Sunday culinary program turned into a tribune to defend the use of citrics and viands, now transformed into juicy steaks.

After the economy halted its downward turn, the situation continues to be very difficult in terms of the supply of meat products. In 1996, each person received only two pounds of beef, four of ground beef mixed with soy (euphemistically called enriched ground beef), as well as, discreet quantities of sub-products, also with high soy content. In the current year things have not changed and the outlook for Cubans entering the next millenium while eating so primitively-- with fricandel or meat-by-products-- are enourmous.

The availability, on the increase, of dollars in the hands of the population, has not increased the availability of meat in the dollar stores. The black market has turned into an excellent competitor to the State, taking customers away from the dollar stores, whose prices are out of reach to the common Cuban. There are plenty of ways in which the prople "resolve" getting meat: From the purchase of special medical diets for diabetics, which allow for a monthly ration, to the illegal sacrifice of cattle, something which has reached alarming levels in the eastern provinces and the center of the country. According to high level official in Las Tunas, the government has declared war on illegal sales of beef, something which hasn't diminished.

In the meantime, the information gathered by human rights organization, Amnesty International, compiles the names of several Cubans who have been killed by the police to protect the cattle.